SOLVED!!! - It ended up being the stupid float level! Even though I set it EXACTLY to FSM specs and tripled checked and made sure there wasn't a problem with the float itself. I was able to determine this only after hooking up a remote starter (a little tricky on a 22r....I'll be posting a video soon on how to do this). Basically you need to wedge something to depress the clutch (not ideal putting it under constant tension) or better, ground the clutch safety wire going into the starter solenoid, then attach remote starter between batt + and IGN wire going into start solenoid. Anyway, when I did this, I could see the bowl filling up, up, up, and up....past the middle line, then out of view, then overflowing and never stopping. I couldn't tell where the float level was before cause I had to be inside the truck to start it....and looking at a flooded/full bowl looks exactly the same as looking at an empty one since the fuel is mostly clear. Anyhow, after spending a ton of time dicking around with the float level, I was able to get it idling quite nicely....until a radiator line blew because the thermostat is old and dead. So ordered a new one and just put it in yesterday. Gunna reinstall dash instrument panel (pulled to install new bulbs and fix heater gauge) and see if she's finally alive when I have time....probably next week.

Anyhow, to clear up confusion on the fuel cut solenoid. All it's intended to do is open up when voltage is applied, and close (cut off fuel) when voltage is taken away....and voltage is applied by turning the IGN ON, and it's taken away by turning IGN off. So, It will only cause idling problems if it's closed or partially closed/stuck or not receiving voltage....in which case it will stay closed and starve the carb of fuel. But on it's own, it will never cause the issue I'm getting (ie. way too much fuel, running too rich). Again, all it can do is cut off fuel, not add more fuel. So that was never a feasible culprit here. Nonetheless, I replaced mine with a cheapo Chinese one that seems to be working fine.....for now anyway.

It's also worth noting, unlike what has been said in some forums, the white wire on the fuel cut solenoid is not ground, it goes to the stupid emissions computer, which probably controls a ground connection to that white wire.....so it should usually be getting ground on that wire, but it has to go through the dumb emissions comp to get there. On my truck, the emissions comp seems to be worthless, and there is no ground on the white wire no matter what I try (pulled comp, resoldered all connectors, replaced a bad diode....still worthless). The cheap Chineseum fuel cut solenoid is actually a better/simpler design. It's a single wire, which is hooked to the black wire, which receives voltage when IGN is on (thus allowing fuel to flow) and receives no voltage when IGN is off (thus cutting fuel)....it gets ground direct from the carb body. No emissions computer involved....very simple and effective. So I'm either going to keep this one one, or fix my stock solenoid with tons of ultrasonic bath and carb cleaner and then solder the white wire to the solenoid housing, so it's always grounded via the carb body.