In the north-west of the Sultanate of Oman, in the heart of the Akhdar Mountains, the Al-Ayn oasis is perched on the limestone cliffs like a small, green miracle. In this arid country, such greenery is sure to surprise anyone visiting the region. And what’s more, it has been clinging to the cliffs for nearly 4,000 years.

The town is located 3,000 metres up the mountain and enjoys mild temperatures of around 28°C, while the valley endures 40°C in the shade. Its terraces, dug into the rock, shelter large Damask rose bushes, the oasis’ emblematic crop.

The village is crisscrossed by a network of canals punctuated by deep basins. These canals are called falaj – aflaj in the plural – some of which are around 4,500 years old and are registered as a UNESCO world heritage site.

Their invention forms the basis for the agriculture of these arid plateaus. Tunnels dug into the mountain rock collect seepage water, which is diverted to tanks which then supply the aflaj. Each village is responsible for its tunnels, without government intervention, and only the wakils, water managers whose role is passed down from father to son, are responsible for ensuring they remain operational. All of this is recorded in a register to prevent conflict.

But due to climate change, water is getting rarer. Little by little, the farmers are once again banding together to counteract the dwindling of blue gold. Men like Abdullah Al-Ghafri, an engineer and professor at the University of Nizwa, are renovating wells and installing solar pumps, which more effectively preserve water sources.

Documentary: Oases: Sentinels of the Desert – Oman: The Hanging Gardens of Jebel Akhdar (2021)
Direction: Sarah Laîné
Production: ZED

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