How to clean up underbody #rust on a budget, this is a different method than what was shown in a previous video I used. For this I am using the #ToyotaTacoma, at the axle back is the worst of the rust on this truck but thankfully the frame is still solid. This method can also be used on frames. The rear axles on these trucks are known for rotting out so I’m wanting to clean this up and provide a layer of protection so it doesn’t get worse. As some of you may have remembered, I did some brake work to the rear, replacing the back brakes, wheel cylinders, and rear brake lines. With the rear somewhat disassembled, this is a great time to clean up the rust.

#OEMTOOLS die grinder: https://www.mobiledistributorsupply.c...

Website: http://4diyers.com
Patreon:   / 4diyers  
Facebook:   / 4diyers  
Twitter:   / 4diyers  
Instagram:   / 4diyers  
Tumblr:   / 4diyers  
Pintrest:   / 4diyers  

Tools/Supplies Needed:
-die grinder
-wire wheel
-air compressor
-rust treatment chemical
-farm implement paint
-degreaser
-hose
-brush
-plastic container
-respirator
-safety glasses
-tape, paper, plastic wrap, or tin foil

Procedure:
If required, spray on a degreaser and then pressure wash the underside of the truck. Try to knock off a majority of the scale using a scraper and ball peen hammer. To keep this mess somewhat contained, I have laid down a tarp which makes for easy cleanup.

These trucks are known to have the differential vents rust up, not allowing the pressure to be released. This will eventually cause the seals to seep, as shown by the pinion area. Using a degreaser, I washed away the oil residue left from the seeping seal. Then using a die grinder with a wire wheel, clean up the surface removing the rust.

Degrease the surface now, using a strong form of detergent, spray on the solution and allow it to soak in for a moment. Then rinse sufficiently using a hose. Using an air compressor to remove any standing water and help dry the surface. With the surface still slightly damp, this is fine as this is the requirement for the rust treatment I’m using.

Dumping the concentrated chemical in a plastic container, it can be mixed with water according to the instructions. I’d recommend wearing gloves, a respirator, safety glasses and work in a well-ventilated area.

Apply it to the surface using a brush. It does take a bit of time to dry and dry times will vary depending on your climate. For extreme rust, a second application is required which I did. The second application I did dilute with water, a 50/50 mixture.

For paint, I used a farm implements from the local farm equipment dealer. This paint can be applied using a brush, roller, or spray gun. With a spray gun, it’s required to be thinned using their products. I applied the paint using a cheap hvlp spray gun. Any areas I didn’t want to be covered in paint had plastic wrap applied. It can be applied to bare metal and does have some rust inhibiting qualities.

After a couple days of drying, reassembled the components on the rear axle. Any fasteners on the axle were replaced with stainless steel to prevent rusting. The areas where the jack stands are will be touched up after with a brush.

After a month of curing and when everything else was finished up, the axle was then treated with a rust-inhibiting spray. I used a mixture of linseed oil and WD40. It’s best to apply this in an area in which you don’t have to worry about staining the ground. Then allow the vehicle to sit in this area for 24hrs as it will drip to some extent.

Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!

© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.