How to Rustproof your Vehicle using Linseed Oil
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 Published On Jul 10, 2020

Welcome to my channel, Homes for Beginners where I show you how to do repairs around the house yourself. Please don't forget to hit that LIKE button and SUBSCRIBE for future videos.

In this video, I will be showing you how to protect the underside of your vehicle from rust. For this example, I’m using a Toyota Tacoma. If you’re located in an area that experiences all seasons and is exposed to salt, this is a great way to ensure your vehicle has a long life.

Here are the Amazon links for some of the products used in the video:
USA:
Boiled linseed oil: https://amzn.to/3tA0D6f
WD40: https://amzn.to/3pka5rd
Oil spray gun: https://amzn.to/3jNlz5x
Safety glasses: https://amzn.to/3b3xMix
Rubber gloves: https://amzn.to/3tXng51
Canada:
Boiled linseed oil: https://amzn.to/3pV8t8o
WD40: https://amzn.to/3u22O2G
Oil spray gun: https://amzn.to/37bTy2b
Safety glasses: https://amzn.to/37hVPJw
Rubber gloves: https://amzn.to/2NpGwHF

Being that we are working with linseed oil, any rags or paper towel which has any oil residue on it, wash them with soap and water and let them air dry in a safe place. It can spontaneously combust on rags or paper towels, so be mindful of that. I would recommend spraying in an area where it doesn’t matter if you get any spray on the ground.

For this, you’ll need safety glasses, a respirator, and latex or nitrile gloves. I also have a handheld oil spray, these are fairly affordable to purchase and you’ll also need a metal container online with it. As you can see, the container just screws onto the bottom.

Next is also a jug of boiled linseed oil, this is the same stuff that’s applied to wood and can be purchased from your local hardware store. Along with that is a can of WD40, considering it’s cold out, the linseed oil can be very thick making the application a little harder. So the WD40 will help thin it out, along with dispersing moisture if it’s present on the surface.

An air supply is needed, I’m using a small 6-gallon pancake compressor. It’ll need to be pumped up a few times, however, it gets the job done and the total application can be done in under an hour. The sprayer is regulated to about 60psi.

Add the linseed oil to the sprayer’s container, dump in however much is required. And then add the WD40 and shake the can gently so mix the oil. I went for about 2 parts linseed oil with 1 part WD40, so only a 33% WD40 content.

Next is screwing the container onto the sprayer.

After that I laid out a tarp to climb underneath the truck, the truck was also parked on a gravel area as this method will most likely stain a concrete, paving stone, or asphalt driveway. Trying to start with the center of the truck first or the harder to reach areas. The spray will drip, so pick areas where you don’t need to climb under after it’s been sprayed.

Wearing the mask, safety glasses, and gloves, spray the underside of the vehicle. Being that this is a 4wd truck, there is no need to elevate the truck using a jack and stands or a ramp. Areas to avoid spraying will be disc brakes, exhaust, and the engine, especially the belts.

Make sure you do get the important areas such as the floor, frame, fuel tank if it’s metal, axles, etc.

Linseed oil does create a slippery layer when it dries, almost like a waxy coating. Linseed oil on its own was a commonly used method for aircraft structures many years ago to prevent rust as it wasn’t affected by temperature or air pressure and was lightweight. It has been used on steel building structures too. If you’re working on a warmer day, I’d certainly recommend spraying the linseed oil on its own. Boiled linseed oil is also not considered a hazardous material either.

Being that this is a boxed-in frame, rust can be a very serious problem. These frames tend to trap dirt inside which will cause the frame to rot from the inside out, this is especially prominent on Toyota's full-frame vehicles. If possible, try to flush out the frame with water, compressed air, and even a vacuum cleaner. Then apply the oil inside of the frame either using the spray nozzle or the other wand which I fitted.

As for the wand, I used a larger hose and gear clamps to fit it to the nozzle. Technically this wand works with a pressurized sprayer so I did plug the vent holes to achieve the same effect while turning the pressure down to 40psi inside. This will allow me to get into all those tight areas.

Once done, you can go for a drive just to help move around any coating and remove some of the access coatings or just let it drip for a couple of days. The coating should technically be amber in color, however, it can be hard to see. This should be done every year before winter to provide sufficient protection.


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No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

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