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The pleasures of Rome are so many and so rich that one is tempted to turn a trip into a scavenger hunt of beauty. The capital of Italy is called an outdoor museum for a reason: The first thing I tell people about Rome is that when you travel to most A-list destinations around the world, you must make plans to experience the attractions, but once you’re in Rome, you’re already there. The entire historic center—centro storico, which sounds a lot more sonorous—along with Vatican City, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. One has the feeling that the World Heritage Site committee started counting up the unmissable historic structures, gave up, and just put the whole revered center in its net.

But as much as Rome is a landscape of preserved ancient ruins and spectacularly ornate churches, the city is also a feeling best captured by la dolce vita (the sweet life), dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing), and my personal favorite, sprezzatura—an almost ineffable quality of easy glamour and perfect nonchalance.
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