“That was the fee I had to pay,” says big wave surfer Polly Ralda, after one of the more nightmare-esque wipeouts at Nazaré we’ve seen this season. “Couldn’t just go out there and get a big left, this is part of the experience.”

Couple of weeks back, Polly was getting ready for Nazaré. The session she had before the wipeout went swimmingly and was left on such a high, she ended up forgetting her tow board for this day. She didn’t check the forecast, but eventually saw those tall tee-pees rising out of the canyon. “It was big, and I caught a good left at the start,” said Polly. The next wave, it all went wrong. Polly hit a bit of chop on the face, lost her balance and got sucked backwards, over the falls. “I touched the bottom, which is pretty hard to do at Nazaré,” she said. “It was the nightmare wipeout. My vest didn’t work.”

Music ID: MB01KGE1IAGOTDF

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