Just as good as a machine shop to within .0005in with basic shop tools!


WHAT TOOLS ARE A MUST?
Precision Straight edge around $20 : https://amzn.to/3eZjaCH
Feeler Gauges down to .0015in around $9 : https://amzn.to/3xPf7S1
Aluminum oxide sand paper(doesn't have to be sticky stuff I used) https://amzn.to/3eWNuxK
OXY Acetylene or OXY Propane a MUST. A Mapp gas and high btu torch like the ts8000 https://amzn.to/2PXnsSE may work but you have to be careful. A propane tank/torch will not work.



PROCESS:
First, your metal high school ruler is NOT straight and should not be used( I tested around 20 that I had with some .010 out over a foot). Buy a precision straight edge for $20, it will come in handy over the years. Use the straight edge to measure the top and bottom of the cylinder head. If you have a cam that inserts vs lays on top like mine you will just be able to measure the valve cover mounting surface but this will give you a great idea of how straight your cam journals are. You can use a shop press instead of bolting it down but be careful as a shop press can easily over bend it. Even if your block is warped, you're better off using it and a bunch of shims to compensate(read below about warped block). Heat and check. Just do a little at a time until it's straight on top. Now, use this straight edge to find a flat surface for sanding/resurfacing. I prefer the engine block but that is not always an option. Just an FYI glass is rarely flatter than .002-.005 over a 18" spread and it is also super flexible and will contour to whatever you put it on. The flattest surface I have found is 3/4in MDF and Melamine(plastic coated MDF). Yes a woodworking plywood type product. Cut it and make it double or triple thick so it doesn't deflect. If you have a cast iron block it is likely straight enough to use like I did. I started with 120grit and you should use this until it just touches the lowest spot/depression. Then I went to 220 and that should suffice, but I finished with 320. You could also start your first passes with 60 or 80 grit if you have .004+ to take off. Wet sand paper is not needed.


What if my block is warped as well?
Does it match the head with the same contour? If both have a .003 bend the exact same way you could likely just slap them back together and be happy unless you are pulling them apart due to a blown head gasket, then something needs to be straightened. First straighten your cyl head like I discuss above. Then you can use sand paper on your head to flatten your block. Or if you used a MDF block you can also cut it down to fit inside your engine bay and do your engine block. Word of caution: plug all your oil ports and cylinders with towels and grease the edges of the cyl walls to catch any sanding grit from falling in. The grease allows easy wipe up/cleaning. You don't want sand in your engine.









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