Save energy with better light if conversion to LED lights from fluorescent fixtures. This describes a shunted, or double-ended bulb, rewire; a non-shunted conversion is similar, but slightly different.
Non-shunted vs. shunted socket differences are due to how electric current flows through the light fixture. Current will flow in a shunted socket by a single path, but through multiple paths in a non-shunted socket. The bulb could burn out quicker, or short if the wrong one is used.
Shunted sockets of fluorescent lights are for instant start ballasts, while non-shunted work with others like trigger start or pre-heat. The ballast gives enough voltage to start the bulbs then regulates the current.
A voltage meter set to continuity would confirm whether the lamp had a shunted or non-shunted socket – a non-shunted would show no continuity.
Direct wire is the most energy efficient because it doesn’t require a power source controller, like a ballast, to operate.
Confirm you have a shunted fixture. Otherwise, replace the non-shunted lamp holders (called tombstones) or wire for a shunted fixture. Using non-shunted tombstones can short the sockets and damage the LEDs.
1. There can be no dimmer.
2. Shut off the power going to the light.
3. Cut the wires to the ballast and remove the ballast.
4. Wire the tombstones positive lead to the live end of the power source.
5. Wire the tombstones negative lead to the neutral end of the power source.
6. Wire the ground connection.
7. Install the new T8 LED lamps, matching the end of the lamp marked “L” to the live tombstone end with the LEDs pointing down.
Once a fixture is wired for T8 LED, you can no longer put fluorescent lamps back into the light.
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