Bustling, colorful, crumbling, energetic, gritty and crowded - that is the Quartieri Spagnoli in Naples. The tight grid of streets looks like graph paper on the map; it is the most densely populated part of the city.

The street network was laid out in the 1600s when the Spanish ruled the Kingdom of Naples. It was the district where the troops were quartered. Via Toledo, one of Naples' main thoroughfares, borders the district to the east, named for a Spanish viceroy of Toledo, Spain. It then became common housing, and today is still a jam-packed quarter of humanity and life where horns blare, people shout, motorini buzz, music tumbles out of windows, and laundry flutters in the breeze like celebratory banners. It is, in short, the stereotype of Naples that is seen in movies.

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