Intermittent crank-but-no-start condition. See below for my basic troubleshooting process.

*SEP 2022: problem was a faulty ATEMU from my manual swap. It was bleeding voltage to the NE+ crank sensor pin at the ECU*

PROCESS OF ELIMINATION FOR CRANK BUT NO START CONDITION – BASIC STEPS

Check all fuses, wiring and connections, etc. Ensure fresh fuel is in the car (did the gas station have any recent issues with water in the fuel?). Any recent work or mods done to the car? Scan for codes. If nothing is identified here, move on to the next steps. Generally speaking, the FAST (Fuel, Air, Spark, Timing) technique will reveal the issue, depending on how in-depth you are able to go.

FUEL

Inspect all fuel injectors, wiring and connections
Test fuel pump resistance (ohms)
Test fuel pump operation (+ to terminal 4, - to terminal 5) by attaching leads. Connect + to + of 12V battery. Briefly touch (–) lead to (–) terminal on battery; fuel pump should operate. Per FSM, do not exceed 10 sec of operation while doing this!
Check for voltage from the fuel pump driver with ignition ON (measure connector that plugs into terminal 4 (+) . Should be ~10.5V
Check for voltage from the fuel pump driver while engine is cranking (measure connector that plugs into terminal 4 (+) should be ~10.5V
If voltage is out of spec, issue could be related to FP driver
Reconnect FP if nothing is found
(some may suggest attempting to start the car with starting fluid – if this is attempted, do not spray into the MAF! I prefer to avoid the starting fluid trick, so jump to next steps to see my method)
Attempt to start the car (this should pulse the injectors and put fuel in the combustion chambers).
Pull one spark plug and check for fuel on tip. Smell the tip. If fuel is present, fuel is getting to the rails and into the combustion chamber during cranking. The injectors are firing.
If fuel is NOT present, the condition is preventing the injectors from firing. Check a spark plug on the other bank to determine if the fuel delivery is both banks or just one
If both banks are NOT getting fuel, you may need to check the fuel pressure during cranking, or, the issue is preventing the injectors from firing altogether (safeguard). Possibilities include failure of a mission-critical sensor, fuel pressure regulator, severely clogged fuel pump sock and/or filter, or the delivery line came off, etc
If just ONE bank is getting fuel, then focus on the bank where the injectors are not firing
If the fuel delivery system is delivering fuel to both banks, move on to the next steps

AIR

Check for major obstruction to intake system
Check MAF (resistance check)
Check for major vacuum leak between MAF and heads (note, for a no-fire scenario, the vacuum leak would have to massive) – for example, both IM gaskets missing or broken. A smoke test works great for this
Check all elec connections to throttle body

SPARK (or items that could contribute or cause a no-fire condition)

Crank car with data scanner that has the capability of measuring RPM while cranking. No signal may indicate an issue with the CkPS (jump to CkPS below)
Check all coil packs and connections. Note: car will still run with multiple coil packs unplugged or damaged, but should throw a specific cylinder misfire DTC
With ignition ON, check for 12V at each coil pack (unplug and 12V source terminal).
Inspect CAM Position Sensors (CmPS) and wiring
Measure CmPS for resistance
Inspect Crank Position Sensor (CkPS) and wiring
Measure CkPS for resistance
Measure NE+ and NE- for resistance at ECU
Apply 2ACV to NE+ and NE- at ECU (ECU should return ~1.8V)
Measure VVTi actuators for resistance (B1: ~8.5ohms, B2: 1.3ohms)
Check all spark plugs. Note, the issue will need to be severe in order to prevent the car from firing (such as ALL or nearly all spark plugs incorrect or completely fouled/broken)
Inspect Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECTS), wiring and connector
Remove connector and inspect terminals on ECTS
Ensure connector is installed properly and secured against ECTS base
Attempt to start car. If the car starts, consider replacement of the ECTS or connector that caused the issue
If car does not start, test the ECTS
Remove ECTS and perform test procedure (test procedure involves how the ECTS reacts to changes with heat baths, suggest to look at procedure on YouTube). Resistance value should go down with increased bath temperature

TIMING

Check all rotating assemblies on the engine that are monitored by sensors. Check the sensors and wiring and interaction with the ECU.

If FAST does not work, check ECU.
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