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In today’s industry. The installation of EMT conduit is increasingly becoming a lost art. However, it is still an approved method and seen frequently on commercial jobsites. In today’s episode of Electrician U, Dustin continues the series of conduit bending teaching us the subtle art of bending kicks.

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Before we get into offset bending basics, let’s take a moment to talk about aluminum conduit. Today’s sponsor- Penn Aluminum Conduit & EMT- makes some of the best aluminum conduit on the market. But why choose aluminum EMT over steel EMT? Well, it’s considerably lighter therefore it takes less labor to install and reduces wear and tear on your field staff hauling conduit around. Next, it’s much easier to bend than steel, again, making it less strenuous for your staff to install and using less labor. It’s also cheaper than steel currently, so it helps on the bottom line. Penn Aluminum has even engineered a coating for the inside of the conduit that helps with wire pulling and eliminates the snagging most often associated with aluminum conduit. Give it a shot, I think you will like it!
So you have planned your conduit route, bent and installed the conduit in the ceiling, installed a 90 degree bend to turn the corner, only to find out that you now have a 2” obstruction blocking your path. What to do?? Enter the kick! A kick is a bend that is installed BEFORE another bend (usually a 90 degree bend) that changes the elevation of the pipe to dodge an obstruction. In essence, it does the same thing as an offset would, with less bends (we only get 360 degrees before a pull point needs to be installed) and frankly, a lot less hassle for us.
To start, you need to establish the path you are travelling with the conduit, the height of the obstruction, and know whether you want to kick the conduit OVER the obstruction or UNDER the obstruction. Next, lay your conduit with the 90 on the ground so you can bend it. The direction that your kick will move the conduit depends on which way you face the 90. Keeping in mind here that you will be bending the kick UP. Visualize in your head what that UP kick will look like, then face your conduit appropriately to compensate for this. Another thing to keep in mind is that a kick is a single bend and the further from your 90 you go, the less bend is required to gain height. For example, if you are a foot from the 90 and put a 22-1/2 degree bend to gain 2” in height, that same bend made at 36” from the 90 will result in being well over 6” as well as leaving you no where to strap the conduit close to the 90.
Now that you have visualized the bend, come back the distance you desire BEFORE the 90 and hook the bender on. A pair of linesman’s or needle nose pliers should be slid UNDER the conduit to keep it level (these tools are mentioned as they are about the right thickness to accommodate and are tools electricians always have available). Now, measuring the distance from the floor to the bottom of the pipe and at the same time start bending the conduit. When you hit the desired distance, after allowing for spring back and the shoe thickness, you are done! That’s it!
We hope this has helped in understanding another of the bending techniques. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.


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